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Creating Tapered Joints

How to turn a "butt" joint into a "tapered edge" joint -- creating a valley for compound and tape.

Why bother? This technique allows for a wall or ceiling that would normally have a "tape bump" to be perfectly flat. That could be important under certain lighting conditions, or when a straight edge like a counter will expose even the most flared out butt tape joint.

Learning Curve 17

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Bruce Anderson on September 15, 2021 05:31

That's definitely a great tutorial on how to create drywall tapered joints. Thanks for sharing!

Charles Rupert on October 20, 2020 22:08

What a giant PIA. Waaay too many steps. You can accomplish the EXACT same thing by backing the two pieces of drywall with a piece of 1/2" plywood or OSB. 6 to 9" is wide is enough--it does not need to span the entire bay. Staple some 1" wide strips of poster board (about 1/16" thick) along the edges that run parallel to the joists. They will be sandwiched between the plywood and drywall and create a small void between the two. Screw one piece of drywall to the joists. Install the plywood (strips down) into the joist bay, centered over the joint. Screw the drywall to the plywood about an inch from the joint. Install the other piece sheetrock in the same order. As you screw the drywall to the backer, you will notice it pulls the joint into the small void created by the poster board strips. You have a shallow mud valley with about 1/3 the effort. (No installing scabs on the joists; no laminating; no cutting braces; no installing and uninstalling braces; no brace holes to patch; same exact effect!)

John H on March 05, 2018 12:48

Very stupid!! This will never ever work!! If you want to do something like this you need a piece of plywood instead so the two pieces of drywall can be fastened.

Hello John,
The fact is that this does work and in fact is a documented standard procedure. It falls into the category of laminating drywall layers to create various curves. Note that I said that you needed the stronger mix-with-water chemically setting compound, not regular pre-mixed joint compound that would not be strong enough to hold. The moisture in the compound actually softens the drywall which then quickly looses its tendency to spring back while the plaster-as-adhesive holds it very nicely. The thick ridges I created before bending it squeezes out where the two edges bend up, but remain thick away from the joint -- creating a permanent rigid basis for this curve inward.

jon on December 13, 2013 13:20

Joint compound and even hard plasters have very little strength so the slightest vibration or movement of the panels would create a crack in the joint. The taping is what prevents the cracking and the compound only glues the tape into place and allows for smoothing it out flat. Look at the video to the left: Taping Joints / Paper or Fiberglass Tape?

Michael on August 22, 2013 17:40

Why bother taping butt joints at all? What does tape add that you really need? why not just mud the joint?

Wim on September 18, 2010 18:55

This was an very handy tip never would have though about doing it this way.thanks

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